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Santoni Showcases Latest Developments In Its Knitting Technology

• By  Textile Excellence
• July 13, 2019

At ITMA 2019, Santoni showcased its very latest seamless circular knitting machines, together with sock knitting machines, large diameter fabric knitting machines, and also process finishing machines. Added to these are the brand new, patented ‘X MACHINE’ and ‘XT MACHINE’ with their ingenious intarsia technology, a new automatic finishing system for seamless boxers, and the innovative ‘K Fabric Project’ that introduces a completely new type of knitted textile process. Developments in seamless range of machines Within the Seamless range of machines, there is a technological revamp of the model SM8-TOP2V, with 4 models on display in diverse gauges. The SM8-TR1S  and the SM8-TOP4J have been completely updated and equipped with new structural elements and electronics. In a special corner of the booth an SM8-TOP2V seamless machine was expressively matched with Santoni’s new automatic finishing machine for boxers – creating a unique ‘Boxer Process Station’. This cut-and-sew machine applies a gusset into each boxer with a 4-needle sewing head, so completing the whole process automatically, and offering the finished boxer ready for the final packing stage. Also on show was the new TC CUT machine, a round-shape toe closer with an integrated slitting device to prepare stockings for manual assembly. Mec-Mor technology gets more versatile The updated versatile Mec-Mor technology, with the type Cmp2/Open and type HP machines, are still the only machines on the market equipped with needle-shifting movement of the needle beds, (= racking) a bi-directional transfer on the same feed allowing variable widths of the knitted panel (= Variatex technology). Mec-Mor is known throughout the world as the only alternative range of machines that look circular but perform like a V-bed machine. This unique technology, displayed on 20 gauge, enables the production of weft double-face knitted garments with high quality designs and record production times. This technology is also used to produce accessories, such as 3-D backpacks, where various yarns can be knitted into ad-hoc positioned areas, in order to obtain a seamless structure that guarantees superior product performance. The Mec-Mor can manufacture sportswear performance garments, knitted men’s jackets and various other eye-catching products. Recently, acclaimed footwear brands have appreciated the wonderful shoe uppers created on the Mec-Mor bringing sharpness to high definition patterns, and the flexibility to place logos and different structures practically anywhere within the shoe upper.  It can create the shoe upper structure in a single operation, so reducing the seams usually prevalent in standard footwear production cycle. Taking Intarsia a step further with X Machine technology Santoni has also designed the innovative and newly patented X MACHINE technology. This technology offers the possibility to knit countless Intarsia items for creating seamless, knitted uppers using a revolutionary 3D intarsia technology that maps the foot for perfect fit and form, as well as offering unlimited patterns and colour combinations. This machine knits different sustainable fibre yarns into one-piece uppers, complete with eyelets, ready for immediate attachment to the sole. What’s more, each lightweight breathable upper is produced in record time. Today, shoe manufacturers can benefit from the innovative Single-cylinder XT MACHINE INTARSIA electronic knitting machine with all the above intarsia features but also offering intarsia knit products with breathable mesh areas with cushioning and/or transfer-stitch points knitted in sculptured terry. This is the first INTARSIA machine in the world capable of producing transfer loops and sculptured terry on the same course. This machine is protected by more than 10 new patents that Santoni have already filed and have been approved. These patents overcome all existing ones and position this unique machine on the market to make an exclusive new range of footwear products. Other new developments The following two new models join Santoni’s world-famous range of sock knitting machines;

• The new single cylinder machine with one feed Model HT 50 – produces heavy socks in terry with 4 colours plus ground on the same course. There is the possibility of knitted or laid-in elastic for a single or double welt, or a 4-colour pattern double welt with tuck stitch. The knitted socks can be in plain mesh, normal/ sandwich/ sculptured and patterned terry.
• The all new single cylinder machine with one feed and needles-in-the-dial model STAR S produces high-quality socks in true rib, 5-colour patterns, with knitted or laid-in elastic and sculptured terry.

It offers a round trip selection when patterning. Also, three technical ways of knitting the heel with the needle being able to move with both forward and backward movements, increasing in this way the textile possibility of the final product. The heel can be shaped more independently without any mechanical constraint (without pickers). Thanks to the independent selection of the needles, the machine works in a reciprocating movement, enabling the heel to be placed anywhere on the sock. The "retractable butt" system improves the quality of the fabric, making it more uniform, creating a more superior end product. Three large diameter machines, ZENITH HS, PULSAR Double Face, and ZENIT 2.4 JE mesh RP, were also exhibited. Fine gauge is the strong point of these machines. This time fine gauge is used to knit a double face fabric, which allows the use of two different yarns,  for true plating, keeping the fabric light. Besides fine gauge, there are two single jersey machines. One model is the only machine which can run four different knitting stitch construction. The other model maintains a perfect balance between productivity, plating quality and productivity versatility. K FABRIC – PROJECT This is a revolutionary process answering the requirements of the modern fast fashion market that demands customised, rapid and short production cycles. It describes a new way of production within the fashion industry. It takes advantage of the Group’s circular knitting machines transforming the circular knitted meshes into a linear fabric, with incredible cost and fabric quality advantages. This is the new frontier of a techno-mechanical sector that offers an opportunity for new styles and technological renewal with huge economic and strategical advantages.

Textile Excellence