be@t-ing Fossil Dependence

Sustainability & Recycling

be@t-ing Fossil Dependence

At Première Vision in Paris (February 3–5, 2026), CITEVE - the Portuguese technological centre - unveiled the results of be@t, a large-scale applied research project that shows how bio-based materials, circular processes and digital tools are now entering real industrial production. This was not a laboratory showcase. Every garment on display was manufactured in Portugal and developed with more than ten industrial partners across spinning, weaving, finishing and garment making.

The message was clear: the transition away from fossil-based textiles is no longer theoretical. It is operational.

The silhouettes presented in Paris were built from the ground up using circular economy principles. Sustainability was not added at the end. It was embedded at the design stage. Material selection, process optimisation and end-of-life strategy were integrated into product development from day one.

The material palette was equally decisive. Linen, hemp and cork sat alongside viscose, lyocell and PLA. Pine-based components were incorporated. Recycled fibres were widely used. Cotton was blended with bio-residues such as grape pomace and spent brewery grain. Across the 12 designs, the dominant share of fibre content was bio-based or recycled. Compositions ranged from linen blended with recycled wool to 100% organic cotton, lyocell, and hybrid structures combining PLA or recycled polyester with cellulosic fibres. All 12 looks achieved environmental and circularity indices above 70%.

These prototypes demonstrate that bioeconomy strategies can be integrated into existing manufacturing systems without dismantling industrial infrastructure. They reduce dependence on fossil-derived inputs while maintaining scalability.

Equally significant was the digital backbone. Each silhouette was equipped with a Digital Product Passport, enabling full traceability from raw material origin to environmental performance indicators. This directly addresses growing brand and consumer demands for transparency and positions Portuguese manufacturers ahead of upcoming European regulatory requirements on sustainability and traceability.

The industrial depth behind the project is substantial. Around 20 companies across the textile and apparel value chain collaborated on the pieces shown in Paris. The broader be@t initiative brings together 60 entities, including SMEs, large enterprises, universities, R&D centres and consultancies, all coordinated by CITEVE. It highlights the strength of Portugal’s vertically integrated, agile and innovation-driven textile ecosystem.

Supported by Portugal’s Recovery and Resilience Plan and the European Union’s NextGenerationEU programme, be@t is designed to accelerate the sector’s shift toward circular, bio-based and digitally enabled models.

In Paris, Portugal did more than talk about sustainability. It demonstrated that circular textiles can be industrial, traceable and ready for market.

The industrial depth behind the project is substantial. Around 20 companies across the textile and apparel value chain collaborated on the pieces shown in Paris. The broader be@t initiative brings together 60 entities, including SMEs, large enterprises, universities, R&D centres and consultancies, all coordinated by CITEVE. It highlights the strength of Portugal’s vertically integrated, agile and innovation-driven textile ecosystem. Supported by Portugal’s Recovery and Resilience Plan and the European Union’s NextGenerationEU programme, be@t is designed to accelerate the sector’s shift toward circular, bio-based and digitally enabled models.

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